The Vatican and the Jewish Ghetto

Our day began early in order to have a meeting with Father Norbert Hoffmann at the Vatican. This meeting was arranged with the assistance of Bishop Salvatore Matano of Rochester who requested that someone from Cardinal Koch’s office meet with us. Father Hofmann is secretary to Cardinal Koch and deals with catholic-Jewish relations. He spoke to us and answered questions. He has been doing this for quite a while and has met with many Jewish leaders over the years. He spoke about the issue of land in Israel as well as problems for Catholics caused by security needs. This was a worthwhile meeting.

From there we drove over to the Jewish Ghetto area and visited the Jewish Museum. I was amazed at some of the beautiful tapestries used for parochets, and other ornamental dressings. Some of the silver was also outstanding. There was a relatively new and interesting section on the Libyan Jewish community.

We were told that before the Great Temple was built while the ghetto was still in existence they housed five different synagogues in the same place. The five communities were, Italian, Roman, Catalan, Castillian and Sicilian. Two of the communities now have space in the Jewish Museum under the Temple. We sat in the Catalan chapel. From the chapel we ascended to the Great Temple itself. I had worshipped there on our trip with Bishop Clark. This time rather than hearing prayers our guide described more about the beautiful sanctuary.

When we departed the Temple we walked around the area of the old Ghetto. We came to the Piazza of the 5 Scolas. Before the ghetto was opened up and the community built the Great Temple, they had to only have one synagogue building. They put 5 separate congregations, (synagogues=scolas) into one building. The communities were Roman, Italian, Sicilian, Catalan and Castilian. As we walked down a street she pointed out on the ground small brass plaques set in the ground in front of buildings. These are called Stumbling Stones. The commemorate homes of victims of the Holocaust. This project was started in Germany by a non-Jew.

It was now time for a lunch break and I asked the guide where I could find Piperno’s Restaurant. She gave me directions and the Leonards and Wertheimers walked there with me. We got there a little after 12:30 and it looked closed. Then we noticed it opened at 12:45. Everyone agreed to wait and it was certainly worth it. We were the first ones in and we were served promptly.

We all had fried squash flowers as a starter. They are deep fried with a bit of cheese. As I bit into one the hot cheese nearly burned my lip. They were scrumptious. As a main course I had a delicious risotto. The dessert was the highlight, “Grandpas Balls.” They are a sweet ricotta ball with added chocolate and perhaps cinnamon, that are fried. A real treat.

The group met and we took the bus to the Vatican. The crowds here were the largest we have seen, with the Ufizzi coming in second. We waited on line and went through the ubiquitous metal detectors. We finally got our internal whisperers so we could hear the guide and went towards the Sistine Chapel. On the way in the courtyard the guide used pictures of the parts of the chapel to give explanations. We then went through the long crowded halls to walk to the chapel. The pieces of art are overwhelming yet one must keep moving as a group to get to the chapel. Once in the chapel you are not allowed to photograph or even talk. The guards keep moving you through the space. I was able to find a seat on the bench to have some time just to look. However, the crowded room is a real challenge to enjoying the art. Lana continually recommends the book The Secrets of the Sistine  so I ordered it to be sent. home.

We finished the chapel and waited for all the group to gather as we walked over to the Basilica of St Peter. We viewed this magnificent structure, stopping a while to see the Pieta. This was one of 5? done by Michelangelo when he was still young. We finished and walked out to the square and then to the bus.

Groups went off to dinner after another successful day. Of course gelato was eaten by most.