The Ghhetto, Murano and Burano

We began our second day in Venice with a lovely breakfast at the hotel. It is so great to start with freshly baked bread and croissants, not to mention the other items. The group then gathered in front of the hotel to take three water taxis to the Ghetto.

The Venice Ghetto was the original ghetto (getto in Italian) established in 1516. It was an area in the city in which Jews were separated and allowed to live and work in the city. Many of the first Jews who came to Venice were brought in as money lenders or physicians. Some might see the ghetto as a terrible injustice done to the Jews, forbidding them the freedom to live anywhere they chose and restricting their movement when the gates were locked.  

Since previously Jews were not allowed to live anywhere within the city, one could view the ghetto as the first allowance of for any Jews to dwell within the city. The Christian guards were payed by the Jewish community to keep them locked on. Perhaps they also prevented trouble from coming into the ghetto. 

We met our local guide for the first part of the day, Francesca, who was quite knowledgeable yet turned out not to be Jewish. We entered one of the original entrances   which no longer has a gate. There is a small unobtrusive sign above it as well as a Kosher restaurant, Gam Gam, right next to the entrance. 

We passed through one areas with a small square, over a small bridge and then into the main square. Of course besides the synagogues, the museum, a Holocaust memorial there was also the ubiquitous presence of Chabad, and a large picture of the Lubavitcher Rebbe.

We entered the museum which also was the location of two early synagogues, the Scola Grande Tedesca and the Scola Canton. The two seem to both be within the museum building but they are actually two buildings that are now connected. Both of these synagogues were for German Jews. Tedesca refers to the Germans and Canton means corner which refers to where it is located. The German Jews were both early Jewish residents of the Northern part of Italy along with Roman Jews. These synagogues are not used regularly but on Hoshanah Rabbah they brought Torahs to the Tedesca Synagogue and held services there. This way the small Venetian Jewish community of only 400-500 Jews keeps them functioning.

The Scola Tedesca was built in 1528 with terrazzo marble floors. It was renovated in the 18th cent. One thing that stood out were the mother of pearl lettering on the doors of the Aron HaKodesh. 

We then left the museum to visit the Levantine synagogue, built in the second half of the 17th century. It was going to open later this month to be the site of worship for the winter. Up until now that honor was with the Spanish which was just across the way on  the small plaza. Because it is being used now (generally only for Shabbat) we were unable to see it.

After that visit we had time to wander on our own, do a bit of shopping, return to the museum, and eat lunch. The last thing we did in the ghetto quarter was to see the Holocaust memorial which was originally 7 sculptured plaques on the wall. They then added another section which depicted a transport train.

Off to another journey on the water in a larger vessel that the entire group could be in together. Elisa the local coordinator took us to the two islands, Murano and Burano. (BTW some of us nodded off during this ride) On Murano we visited a glass factory for the world famous Murano glass. We had a demonstration of one item being created and then were able to tour the gallery and the gift shop. Of course a few purchases were made. We were told that each piece was unique. When we visited the gallery seeing magnificent pieces we were told not to take pictures so there wouldn’t be anyone who could copy their work. Again people shopped.

Next stop was the Island of Burano famous for lace making and brightly colored houses. It was a lovely quaint place with a lot of shops and charm. Finally had my first  gelato and the famous cookies of Burano. Some people did a little shopping. 

Back on the boat for our return trip and a great deal of laughter with our tour educator, Lana. When we returned just over half the group got off at San Marco Plaza to go on gondolas. Others returned closer to the hotel, grabbed a quick bight and then went to a Vivaldi concert.

Jan, Barb Mendler and I ate at a delightful restaurant by the Grand Canal, went to Nikos’s Gelato and finally returned to the hotel.

[Sorry, unable to upload any pictures]